Julian Cope presents Head Heritage

Totally agree as a result of observation on hols 'up the top' re campervans. Stunning sights doubtless to be had when you open your eyes in the morning. An ambition of mine..hate the 'houses on wheels', the small ones are another matter entirely. I've been very envious of those overnighting at special views where pitching a tent isn't a practical option.

Another option.... if you're travelling solo..... is to use an estate car. Blow up bed in the back and there are no restrictions whatsoever as to what you can do. I've been doing this for years now.

I'd agree with tjj and Evergreen that Stromness is your most convenient stop for the best sites. I stayed at The Ferry Inn last year. It was okay, nothing more - they weren't very flexible with Shetland ferry arrival times (when I was refused a drink at the bar at 11pm) or with early ones either (I had to miss out on breakfast on my last day) and that, with a very indifferent evening meal in the bar, made for a shall we say compromised experience. On my previous visit I stayed at the Stromness Hotel which was more expensive but worth the extra cost, especially if you can get one of the front facing rooms: excellent views. If you can afford it, I recommend staying there.

Kirkwall is a nice town with plenty of good bars to keep you busy in the eve, but the hotels are dearer.

I would recommend staying in Kirkwall.

It's pretty central on Mainland, only about 8 miles from the Ness of Brodgar/Stenness Maes Howe etc., and is closer to South Ronaldsay for Tomb of the Eagles. It also has by far a bigger range of places to eat & drink, and get supplies than Stromness, and if you wanted to visit some of the other islands the majority of inter-island ferry connections leave from Kirkwall harbour (only Hoy & Rousay sail from different terminal's).

Taking the car on inter-island ferries is expensive but there is cycle hire in Kirkwall, and it only costs you the fee for a foot passenger if you take the bike, you can see quite a bit of the the other islands by bicycle during a day trip, plus the roads on them are really quite! The travel/tourist information centre in Kirkwall has a leaflet with all of the ferry timetables which is useful if you are thinking of visiting the other islands.

There are no shortage of wonderful places to visit on Orkney so I'm sure you'll have a fantastic time wherever you go. If you are visiting during the summer though I'd suggest pre-booking a visit to Maes Howe as often it gets fully booked up due to block bookings by cruise ships, and Maes Howe is really not one of those places you want to miss!

We stayed in a couple of nice places.

If you go to the page of a site you want to be near - eg Ring of Brodgar http://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/388/ring_of_brodgar.html - there's a dropdown for "Facilities".

On that page you'll find a few recommendations. :)

Mine are Lochend (with views of the Stones of Stenness and Maes Howe among other stuff) and Atlantis Cottages. We loved both. :)

G x